Monthly Archives: January 2008

the legacy of occupation?

I visited the Tibetan Museum in McLeod Ganj early this afternoon and it is a really wonderfully constructed place over two large rooms but really quite emotional to absorb. It tells the story of the Tibetan people from when the … Continue reading

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the monks and the cold

I am currently huddled in a warm internet cafe in McLeod Ganj, a small hill top town next to Dharamsala and home to the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan Government in Exile. On the bus up from Amritsar I ran … Continue reading

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Carlsberg don’t do border cermonies…

…but if they did they’d be hard pressed to beat the pomp and circumstance at the Attari closing of the Pakistan-India Border. I’m in Amritsar at the moment and in the past 36 hours have seen probably the most beautiful, … Continue reading

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the unexpected charms of Delhi

I strongly suspect that my reasons for rather liking Delhi are probably due to the fact that four months in the country has made me immune to a certain amount of tourist hassle and the somewhat darker side of India. … Continue reading

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Claire v Delhi: 15-0

Arrive at Old Delhi station at 7am, not at New Delhi which was where I thought I was arriving, so I had to get an autorickshaw across town. Taxi driver no. 1 offers to drive me to Paharganj (tourist central) … Continue reading

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too much tourist touting

I’ve got to be honest, not loving Jodhpur. It’s loud, noisy, rude, bustling, dusty and totally lacks the charm, for me, of all the other places I’ve visited in Rajasthan. The rickshaws are quite entertaining though, they all look like … Continue reading

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Mr India’s balls and other camel stories

The biggest reason for many people to come to Jaisalmer other than the beautiful Jain temples, Havelis, and sandstone town surrounding a fort cut into the rock rising above the rooftops glowing in the setting sun, is to go on … Continue reading

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where everybody knows your name

I loved Jaisalmer. From the moment I arrived and fought my way past the rickshaw wallahs that swarmed onto our tourist bus like bees around sugar, and found a gorgeous room with a big wooden bed, window seat and satin … Continue reading

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brahma blessings from the shiva man

Breakfast is by far the most important meal of the day. With a good breakfast inside you can go on into the day to achieve anything; scaleĀ unreachable heights, conquer unconquerable deeds, well, you get the picture. My friends in Bundi … Continue reading

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Bundi, bhang lassis and those dangerous bananas

Travelling in India is like having a schizophrenic lover; at times they are rude, dirty, noisy, confusing, difficult to understand and won’t let you alone for 5 minutes, and just when you think you’d be better off without them, suddenly … Continue reading

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